The fish is sun-dried whole for days until it turns pungent and leathery, then fried down with chili until the smell — powerful enough to clear a kitchen — becomes one of the region's most-craved flavors.
Loitta (Bombay duck) is salted and sun-dried until firm and intensely pungent, then torn into pieces and fried with onion, garlic, and plenty of chili into a dry, punchy curry. Chattogram's markets sell the dried fish by the basket, and home cooks and street stalls alike turn it into this regional specialty.