Its name comes from the Arabic word for 'morning' — it was built to be eaten right at sunrise after simmering all night, though Old Dhaka now happily serves it any time of day.
Beef or mutton shank, bone marrow, and hock simmer for hours — some Old Dhaka kitchens run the pot up to 17 hours overnight — in a thick, dark, chili-laced gravy until the meat falls apart. It's ladled out at breakfast counters across the old quarter, scooped up with roti or naan.