Connoisseurs insist you need Battambang's rice to make real kralan — the province is known as Cambodia's rice bowl for its unusually fertile fields, and locals credit that alone for giving Battambang's version the edge over every other region's.
Glutinous rice is mixed with coconut milk, grated coconut, sugar, and a pinch of salt, packed into a length of green bamboo, and roasted slowly over an open flame until the rice inside turns tender and faintly smoky. Vendors — often women balancing baskets on bicycles — split the charred bamboo open to order and sell it by the tube for about a dollar.