Whole fish are grilled over charcoal right at the water's edge in Douala, sometimes within sight of the Wouri estuary where part of the catch was landed hours earlier.
Whole tilapia or mackerel are butterflied, rubbed with a garlicky ginger-and-chili marinade, and grilled over open charcoal until the skin blisters. Vendors serve it on foil with fried plantains and a fiery pepper sauce.