The name comes from slang for a casual pickup soccer match — the dish is meant to be shared the same informal way, straight off one big tray.
A huge shared platter piles french fries, grilled meats, sausage, olives, pickled onion, and hard-boiled egg for a table to pick at with forks. Valparaíso's hillside bars ('cerros') built their late-night reputation on it.