The name comes from slang for a casual pickup soccer match — the dish is meant to be shared the same informal way, straight off one big tray.
A huge shared platter piles french fries, grilled meats, sausage, cheese, olives, pickles, and hard-boiled egg for a table to pick at with toothpicks and forks. The bars scattered across Valparaíso's hills (cerros) serve it late into the night.