Vendors have sold mazato outside the Basilica of Chiquinquirá for generations, timing their biggest batches to the crowds arriving for the town's Marian pilgrimage each July.
Rice is soaked, ground, and mixed with water, sugar, and spices, then left to ferment lightly for a day or two into a tangy, milky drink. Sellers outside Chiquinquirá's cathedral pour it from large jugs into plastic cups for pilgrims and market-goers.