A cheese tart called 'goiere' is recorded in Burgundy as early as the late 14th century, and today a Guild of Gougère Tasters inducts new members at the village fête.
Choux pastry beaten with grated Comté or Gruyère and baked into golden puffs or rings; sold from Burgundy bakery counters and handed round cold at wine tastings.
Why it's made this way: It is a traditional specialty of Auxerre and the Yonne, and the Yonne village of Flogny-la-Chapelle, which claims to be its birthplace, holds a Fête de la Gougère every May where gougères are made and sold.