Locals judge a good baraque à frites by whether the fries are fried twice — once to cook, once to crisp — a double-fry technique shared with neighboring Belgium just across the border.
Potatoes are cut thick, fried once to soften, then fried again hot and fast for a crackling crust, served in a paper cone with a choice of sauces like andalouse, samouraï, or brown mayonnaise-based blends from the walk-up fry shacks found on nearly every town square.