The town of Mortagne-au-Perche has run an international black-pudding competition every March since the 1960s, pulling in butchers from well beyond France to compete for the title.
Boudin noir is a sausage of pig's blood, onions, and fat, simmered gently until set, then grilled hard so the skin blisters and cracks. Market and fair vendors serve it hot, sliced into a roll or plated with apple.