Hulu Sungai Specialty · Grilled Fish in Coconut Gravy
Ketupat Kandangan
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Unlike almost every other ketupat dish in Indonesia, which pairs the rice cake with a curry of beef, chicken, or vegetables, this one is built specifically around haruan — snakehead fish — grilled first, then simmered into the coconut gravy.
Diamond-shaped ketupat rice cakes are sliced into a bowl and covered in a rich, spiced coconut gravy built from grilled haruan (snakehead fish), eaten by hand as is traditional in the Hulu Sungai region. Warungs in and around Kandangan, South Kalimantan, keep the smoky grilled fish and gravy simmering side by side.
Why it's made this way: The dish takes its name from Kandangan, a town in Hulu Sungai Selatan Regency, South Kalimantan, where grilling the fish before it goes into the coconut gravy became the defining local technique that separates it from other regional ketupat dishes.
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