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400-Year-Old Street Food · Minced Lamb Sandwich

Beryan (Isfahani Beryani)

Beryan (Isfahani Beryani) — street food from Isfahan, Iran
Photo: Reza babaeian / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

Two 17th-century French travelers, Jean Chardin and Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, both wrote home about eating this exact dish — giving it a documented history nearly as old as Isfahan's most famous Safavid monuments.

Lamb, traditionally including lung for texture, is slow-cooked, then pan-fried in small round pans and minced fine, piled into flatbread — usually taftoon or sangak — with cinnamon, fresh herbs, and a glass of doogh on the side. Qajar-era Isfahan had dozens of dedicated beryani shops, and the old bazaar still runs the tradition today.

Why it's made this way: The dish dates to the Safavid era when Isfahan was Persia's capital, and its appearance in both Chardin's and Tavernier's 17th-century travel writings makes it one of the best-documented street foods in Iranian history.
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Part of World of Street Food — 3248 dishes from 118 countries. Something wrong here? Tell us in the comments below. Photo credits.