Cooks sometimes swap in the small, bitter gnangnan eggplant for an even sharper, more medicinal-tasting variation of the sauce called N'Sêsseu.
A fiery pepper-forward sauce, built from crushed chilies, onions and tomatoes, simmered with dried fish or snails until thick and glossy. It's poured over pounded plantain foutou for a meal that leans hard into heat.