Downtown Amman's Hashem restaurant, open since the 1950s and running almost around the clock, serves little beyond falafel, hummus, and foul, and has drawn everyone from students to royalty.
Ground chickpeas blended with herbs and spices are shaped into small patties and deep-fried to order, then served in pita with tomato, pickles, and tahini sauce, or plain with a side of hummus. Downtown Amman has several long-running falafel counters that draw lines at breakfast and lunch.