This ice-cold, vinegar-sharp noodle dish traces back to a 19th-century refugee crossing — Dungan Muslims fled a failed revolt against Qing China, crossing the Tien Shan mountains in the brutal winter of 1877-78, and their cold-noodle recipe took root in the villages they founded on the other side.
Hand-cut wheat noodles and slippery strips of potato-starch jelly are piled into a bowl with chopped boiled egg and cucumber, then doused in a sharp vinegar-and-chili broth. Dungan cooks in Zhambyl Region villages like Masanchi and Sortobe, near Kazakhstan's border with Kyrgyzstan, sell it from market stalls, and it's eaten cold even in winter as a fiery, palate-clearing snack.