Shymkent, home to a large Uzbek community, has a stronger plov culture than any other big Kazakh city, and much of it is cooked in canteen-style eateries in giant kazans set over open fires.
Rice is layered over browned lamb, carrots, and onion in a wide cast-iron kazan and slow-cooked over a wood fire until the grains soak up the meat fat and turn deep amber-gold. Shymkent's oshxona restaurants cook it in huge batches all morning and ladle it out for a steady lunchtime crowd, often finished with a raw garlic bulb or a fried quail egg on top.