Assam laksa began as a way to use the bony scrap fish left over once a fishing family's best catch was sold — tamarind was stirred in mainly to mask its oiliness.
Thick rice noodles sit in a tangy, fiery broth built from flaked mackerel, tamarind (assam), and a paste of lemongrass, galangal, and dried chilli, then topped with cucumber, pineapple, mint, torch ginger flower, and a dab of dark prawn paste (hae ko). Hawker stalls across Penang, especially around Air Itam, simmer the fish broth in huge pots and assemble each bowl to order.