Cross the border into Thailand and the almost-identical salad is called som tam — Shan State's papaya salad shares a direct culinary lineage with its far more famous Thai cousin.
Shredded green papaya is pounded with dried shrimp, tomato, garlic and chili, dressed with lime and fish sauce, and tossed to order at open-air stands. It's a fixture of Shan State's markets, eaten as a sharp, cooling counterpoint to the region's heavier noodle dishes.