Raw taro leaves contain needle-like calcium oxalate crystals sharp enough to irritate the throat — only the long, moist heat of an umu earth oven breaks them down into the silky, spinach-like parcel that reaches the table.
Layers of taro leaves are wrapped around a filling of coconut cream, onion and often tinned corned beef, then slow-cooked — traditionally over hot stones in an underground umu oven — until the leaves collapse into a rich, creamy mound. Pacific market stalls across South Auckland sell it by the tray alongside taro and roast pork for Sunday lunch.