Legend says it was invented by Szekler women who baked ash and flour on a stick to fool Mongol invaders into thinking their stores were still full.
A cylinder of sweet yeast dough is wound around a wooden spit, brushed with sugar, and rotated over hot coals until the outside caramelizes into a crackling shell. Vendors sell it warm off the spit at fairs and Christmas markets, rolled in walnuts, cinnamon, or cocoa.