Legend credits a single 19th-century Saint-Louis cook, Penda Mbaye, with inventing it after a shortage of imported rice forced her to improvise with local broken grains.
Fish stuffed with a garlic-parsley paste (roff) simmers with tomato, cassava, cabbage and carrots, and the flavorful broth is then used to cook the rice itself. Vendors and home cooks in Saint-Louis's Guet Ndar fishing quarter serve it from huge communal platters, often prized for the caramelized rice crust scraped from the bottom of the pot.