Diners build their own bowl by picking pieces off an open display case — tofu, chilies, okra, and bitter gourd all stuffed with fish paste — the same pick-and-choose format Hakka cooks once used to stretch a little minced fish across a lot of cheap vegetables.
Fish paste is packed into hollowed tofu, chilies, and vegetables, then boiled or simmered in a light broth with noodles, or served dry tossed in chili and sweet sauce. Chinatown's hawker centres display the stuffed pieces out front so diners can choose exactly what goes into their bowl.