In Bitlis the meat is seasoned with nothing but rock salt, and büryan shops start serving around 3 in the morning.
Young goat is hung in a tandır pit about 2.5 m deep, sealed with an iron lid and mud and steam-cooked for about two hours, then weighed out, chopped onto pide and sold from small büryan shops from before dawn.
Why it's made this way: Büryan is a signature dish of Bitlis, whose version was registered as a geographical indication in 2021; neighbouring Siirt has its own lamb-based registration.