Local legend holds the noodles genuinely cannot be replicated anywhere else — the recipe is said to call for water from one specific centuries-old well and ash from a tree that only grows on an island off the coast.
Thick, chewy rice noodles — alkalized until they take on a faint smokiness — are topped with sliced pork, fresh greens, bean sprouts, and crunchy pork cracklings, dressed with just a few spoonfuls of dark broth rather than swimming in soup. Hội An's Old Town stalls have served it this way for generations.