The same dish changes color depending on where you eat it — a white sauce in Algiers, a red tomato-based one further west — so the sauce alone can hint at which city's kitchen made it.
Mderbel layers rounds of fried eggplant over a chickpea-and-meat stew spiced with cinnamon and caraway, the eggplant fried separately until golden before it's nestled into the sauce to finish simmering.