The dish is young: it first appeared at Changsha's Nanmenkou in the 1990s, then spread across the city and the whole province.
Whole small crayfish are stir-fried hard with lots of chili, Sichuan pepper and perilla leaves, then simmered in their spicy sauce. Diners pull them apart by hand, and the small claws are sucked rather than picked.
Chuan'r (Grilled Meat Skewers)
Youtiao (Fried Dough Stick)
Tanghulu (Candied Hawthorn Skewers)
Malatang (Self-Serve Spicy Broth)