The version locals rate highest is fried with cacai, greens that are salted and then scrubbed hard on a washboard before pickling.
Thin rice noodles are stir-fried fast over high heat with egg, shredded pork, bean sprouts and scallion, plus plenty of chili, until they pick up a slightly charred wok aroma.
Chuan'r (Grilled Meat Skewers)
Youtiao (Fried Dough Stick)
Tanghulu (Candied Hawthorn Skewers)
Malatang (Self-Serve Spicy Broth)