Gesho, the buckthorn shrub that gives tej its bitterness, plays the role hops play in beer and also goes into tella, Ethiopia's home-brewed grain beer.
Tej is a home-brewed honey wine fermented with gesho (a hop-like local plant), giving it a sweet, slightly bitter, wine-like character that ranges from light to strongly alcoholic. It's served in rounded flask-shaped glasses called berele at tej houses and street-side stalls throughout Ethiopia.