Stir it right and elarji stretches into long, gooey cheese strands when you lift a spoonful — locals judge how well it's made by how far the cheese pulls.
Cornmeal is cooked slowly with sulguni cheese stirred in until it melts completely into the porridge, turning it stretchy and elastic. Market kitchens and small eateries in Samegrelo serve it hot in a bowl, often alongside grilled meat.