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Breaded anchovies · Trieste buffets

Sardoni Impanai (Breaded Anchovies)

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Despite the name, Trieste's 'sardoni' are not sardines but anchovies; the prized ones are called 'barcolani', after the Barcola seafront.

Anchovies dipped in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fried, a constant on the counters of Trieste's buffets, picked up hot or cold as a quick bite with a glass of white wine.

Why it's made this way: They are a classic of Triestine cooking and of the city's buffet culture, which grew from dockworkers' and shopkeepers' quick mid-morning snack, the 'rebechìn'.
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