Nearly all of Jordan's coastline sits at Aqaba alone — the country has only about 26 kilometers of shoreline in total, and every bit of it fronts this one city.
Whole grouper, bream, or snapper is scored, seasoned simply with lemon, garlic, and cumin, and grilled whole over charcoal until the skin blisters. Aqaba's seafood stalls and fish-market restaurants let customers pick their fish fresh from the ice before it's cooked to order.