The lakeside fish kiosks that made this dish famous only sprang up in the early 1980s, yet Dunga Beach's fried tilapia is now treated as Kisumu's edible landmark.
Whole tilapia, pulled straight from Lake Victoria, is scaled, scored, and deep-fried until the skin turns crackling-crisp, then served with a mound of ugali, sautéed sukuma wiki, and fresh kachumbari. Informal lakeside stalls at Dunga Beach cook it to order within sight of the fishing boats.