Even its hometown is disputed — Syrian bakers in Homs and Hama both claim they invented it — but Tripoli's confectioners adopted it so thoroughly it now sits beside knafeh in nearly every souk shop window.
A dough of semolina, sugar, and stretched cheese is rolled thin, wrapped around a log of fresh ashta cream, and cut into short cylinders drenched in rose-scented syrup and crushed pistachios. It's a fixture in Tripoli's souk sweets-shop windows.