Tripoli's benchmark sweets house, nicknamed 'Kasr el Helou' — the Palace of Sweets — has been baking this dish in the old souk since 1881, now run by the founder's descendants.
Semolina dough is layered over stretchy akkawi cheese, baked until the top turns deep orange-red, then doused in scented sugar syrup and scattered with crushed pistachio. Tripoli's souk-front sweets houses slice it warm straight off wide copper trays.