At the legendary Gran Café de la Parroquia, ordering is done by tapping a spoon against your empty glass, a century-old signal that summons a waiter to pour steaming milk from a tall kettle held high overhead.
Strong dark coffee is poured into a glass and topped tableside with a stream of hot frothed milk poured from shoulder height. Sidewalk cafés in the port city of Veracruz, especially La Parroquia, have served it this way for generations.