Ōtara Market opens at 6am, and stallholders already have doughnuts frying so the first bags are hot and sugared before most of the city is even awake.
A simple yeasted dough is left to rise, torn into rough pieces, and deep-fried until golden and pillowy, then sold hot in paper bags, sometimes rolled in sugar. They're a fixture of Auckland's Pacific Island markets, fried to order at stalls that regularly sell out by mid-morning.