Fresh koryushka smells distinctly of cucumber the moment it's caught — a quirk so beloved that locals judge the fish's freshness by its scent, not its look.
Koryushka is a small silvery smelt that's lightly floured and fried whole until the skin turns crackling-crisp, bones and all, then eaten hot by the handful straight out of a paper cone. Each spring, temporary stalls appear along the Neva embankments selling it fresh off the boats.