The curd sets not in a machine but inside a coarse, unglazed clay pot, whose porous walls quietly wick out moisture overnight and thicken the curd from the outside in.
Water buffalo milk, prized for its higher fat content, is boiled, seeded with a spoonful of old curd, and left to set overnight in a clay pot, then served in wedges drizzled with kithul treacle. Roadside dairies and market stalls across Batticaloa's buffalo-herding countryside sell it fresh daily.