Its roasted spice mix leans so heavily on fennel and fenugreek that it's often likened to Chettinad masala from across the Palk Strait — and the curry even simmers with the seed pods of the drumstick tree as a vegetable.
Whole lagoon or reef crabs are broken into shell-on pieces and cooked down in a thick, deep-red gravy of roasted Jaffna curry powder, coconut milk, tamarind and curry leaves. It's sold by the kilo at Jaffna's central market and evening seafood stalls, eaten by hand with rice or string hoppers.