Tapped from the crown of a palmyrah palm at dawn, the same sap is a mild, sweet drink at breakfast and a lightly fermented, tangier toddy by the time the afternoon heat has worked on it.
Tappers climb tall palmyrah palms at first light, slice the flower stalks, and let the sap drip into hanging clay pots. It's sold fresh and sweet in the morning as thal kalaham, or left to ferment through the day into a sharper toddy, a Jaffna staple distinct from the coconut toddy of the south.