The centre is stretched so thin that it fries pale and almost translucent, leaving a hollow that is filled with apricot jam rather than injected like a doughnut.
A rich yeasted dough enriched with egg and sometimes a splash of rum or schnapps is stretched thin in the middle, then deep-fried until it puffs at the edges and stays pale in the centre. Salzburg's farmers markets and village fairs sell them dusted with sugar, with apricot jam spooned into the hollow.