The coconut milk is squeezed fresh by hand from grated coconut for each batch, a labor-intensive step Esmeraldas cooks say gives the sauce its distinct richness compared to canned versions.
Fish is simmered in a sauce of fresh coconut milk, tomato, garlic and cilantro until the broth turns rich and orange-tinted. Beachside stalls along Esmeraldas serve it with rice and patacones.