Harissa shops open only in the cold months and serve only in the early morning, often selling out soon after dawn.
Mutton and rice slow-cooked overnight with spices and stirred into a thick paste, eaten hot from the shop with local bread.
Why it's made this way: It is the Kashmiri winter breakfast, sold roughly October to March, and the old shops of downtown Srinagar, around Aali Kadal and Nawakadal, are the centre of the trade.