During the nine nights of Navratri, many Tamil households rotate through a different boiled legume each evening — the same tempering method, one dish, nine variations — long before it ever reaches a beach vendor's cart.
Boiled chickpeas, peanuts, or other legumes are tossed in a hot pan with mustard seeds, curry leaves, green chili, and grated coconut, then served warm in a small paper cone. Vendors sell it from handcarts along Chennai's Marina Beach and other coastal promenades as an evening walking snack.