Its name literally means 'mashed up' — it was invented to rescue cheese that had gone past its prime, not to showcase a fresh one.
Ripe Camembert or Romadur is mashed with butter, a splash of beer, paprika, and chopped onion into a spreadable, rust-colored paste, then served in a crock with pretzels or dark bread at beer garden tables — order it at the counter alongside a stein.