6 dishes in Uganda
6 street foods from Kampala, Uganda: Luwombo, Nsenene, Kikomando, Enswa and Binyebwa and more. Each one has its own page with the story behind it and what to look for.
Street Staple · Chapati & Beans
Kikomando
The name is usually traced to 'commando', from the action films popular in Kampala's video halls: a cheap plate that makes you tough enough for…
Kikomando chops chapati into ribbons and folds it through a pot of stewed beans, often topped with a fried egg — a filling, cheap plate sold from roadside stalls and taxi-park kiosks…
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Foraged Delicacy · Flying Termites
Enswa (Flying Termites)
Harvesters often cover a termite mound with a shelter of sticks and leaves and dig a pit beside it, so the emerging termites are funnelled in and…
Enswa are winged termites that emerge from anthills after the first heavy rains. They're caught under bright lights at night, then roasted dry or pounded into a paste that's cooked into a…
Everyday Sauce · Groundnut Paste
Binyebwa
Some cooks steam the sauce in a banana-leaf parcel, luwombo-style, instead of simmering it in a pan.
Binyebwa is a thick sauce of roasted, ground peanuts simmered with tomato and onion until glossy, ladled generously over steamed matooke or rice at food stalls throughout the city.
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Roadside Snack · Banana Pancakes
Kabalagala
Despite the name, kabalagala contain no eggs or dairy — they're an entirely plant-based street snack.
Kabalagala are small, deep-fried pancakes made from mashed ripe bananas mixed with cassava flour and a touch of local pepper, fried until they puff up like little doughnuts and sold hot in…